ZANZIBAR and the DHOW RIDE

Zanzibar is complex, multidimensional, throbbing with energy and color in its city and its villages. Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous group of islands in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Tanzania. We docked in Stone Town, wound through twisting lanes by buildings with beautifully carved doors, and then travelled to Bluebay Resort about an hour away. We passed street markets and schools, the latter rather open air structures FILLED with children - maybe 100 per class, all in uniforms, with the girls in head scarves (95% Muslim here) to their hips. The impression is one of huge convents where the nuns scamper instead of walk. Beyond the villages are large fields of rice and sugar cane, being readied for the rains which begin in a few weeks. (Who does the readying? Generally two women, no matter how mammoth the field. And who does the carrying of rice, suitcases, jugs? The women, who balance their burdens on the little pad on their head scarves.

Leaving the main road, we turned into Bluebay Resort. My oh my! The impeccable landscaping, elegant buildings, cool spaces, and welcome by a smiling porter led us to a pool winding through the trees and a covered retreat on the ocean. Beds on the beach --- flowers in our towels --- casuarinas swaying in the breeze --- and dhows offering us rides.

Of course! Subooloo our captain and Isaac the mate got us into their vessel that looked as though it had been constructed
just after Adam and Eve left Eden. Subooloo made the outrigger canoe himself; he hollowed out a mango tree and that's how wide it was (i.e. smaller than a butt). He also didn't put any seats on, but that works for folks who jump on and off their vessel a lot. (We like to sit.) What did we want to see, they asked? Barracuda? No, thanks, we were clear, but starfish would be nice. So we went to the middle of the lagoon and Isaac jumped off and came back bearing 10 starfish - red, purple, green, brown, gold .... and put them by our feet and then went back for more. This process continued until Hope decided it would be a good idea to save the lives of these beauties by tossing them back. So we did.

Then back to the ship for a drink in a chair that fits!

Love, Hope and Bill